#Eda85daysinJapan | Chapter 3 (Kyoto Part 9)
🗓️ 12 May 2026
⛩️ Seimei Shrine & Unexpected Connections
My first stop of the day was Seimei Shrine (晴明神社), built on the site of the residence of Abe no Seimei, the famed 10th-century onmyoji (spiritual practitioner and court astronomer). Known for its distinctive pentagram star symbolism, it's a peaceful site with a distinct energy.
It was here that I had my very first experience with tree communication—quietly placing my hands against the ancient tree on the grounds and feeling a clear sense to release all my lingering troubles and heavy burdens directly to it. Just in front of the main shrine stands the Yakuyoke Momo, a polished peach sculpture. In Japanese folklore, peaches possess the power to ward off evil spirits, so visitors come to rub the bronze surface to strip away misfortune.
🍲 Neighborhood Discoveries & Shiramine Shrine
Continuing on, I took a stroll past Shiramine Shrine (白峯神宮), famous among athletes and fans for housing the deity of sports and martial arts.
When hunger set in, we stopped at Matsunoya (Facebook Page) expecting the standard chain restaurant of the same name. To our delight, it turned out to be a beloved local neighborhood canteen! We ordered a classic katsu-don set—crisp pork cutlet wrapped in savory egg and dashi over steam-piping rice.
🌳 Tadasu-no-Mori, Shimogamo & Heian Shrine
We split paths after lunch, and I ventured towards the Demachi Masugata Shopping Street before stepping into the ancient woodland canopy of Tadasu-no-Mori (糺の森). The path leads directly to Kawai Shrine (famous for beauty prayers) and the grand Shimogamo Shrine (賀茂御祖神社), where I was fortunate enough to spot the shrine’s ceremonial sacred horse.
Walking south towards Heian-jingū Shrine (平安神宮), I unexpectedly caught a local craft market happening on the grounds. It was the perfect spot to grab a quality cup of coffee and browse handmade goods from local artisans.
👓 Ending the Day
The late afternoon was reserved for something special: meeting my frame designer at tsugai eyewear for the final fitting of my new custom spectacles.
After logging tens of thousands of steps across the city, I ended the day with a light, colorful, home-style dinner—anchored by a soothing veggie soup made with fresh cabbage and yuzu tofu.
