#Eda85DaysInJapan | Chapter 2 (Kumano Kudo Part 4)
🗓️ 30 April 2026
📍 Route: Hosshinmon-oji ➔ 蘇生之森 Monument ➔ Oyunohara ➔ Kumano Beef Lunch ➔ World Heritage Center ➔ Kumano Hongu Taisha (Drum Ceremony) ➔ Kawayu Onsen
Step into the Pure Land: Hosshinmon-oji & 蘇生之森 (Forest of Rebirth)
Our final trail day began with a shuttle ride from Kawayu Onsen up to Hosshinmon-oji (発心門王子).
Right as we stepped off, our guide chatted with us about the deeper spiritual significance of where we were standing. Hosshinmon-oji translates to the "Gate of Awakening of the Aspiration for Enlightenment," marking the outermost entrance to the sacred precinct of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Historically, passing this gate meant officially leaving the profane, everyday world behind and stepping onto holy ground in the pure land of the gods.
Just after passing through Hosshinmon-oji, we came upon the "蘇生之森" (Sosei no Mori / Forest of Rebirth) stone monument. The kanji 蘇生 translates to "Resurrection," "Revival," or "Rebirth."
In Kumano spiritual tradition, the three grand shrines govern different timelines, with the final stretch toward Hongu Taisha specifically designated as the realm of the Future and Salvation. Historically, Kumano was viewed as the edge of the physical world, where trekking through mountain passes was a ritual shedding of the ego. Standing before the 蘇生之森 marker right after the gate anchors that spiritual transformation—signaling the exact moment pilgrims enter the forest to begin their final descent to emerge as completely renewed people.
Village Stalls, Warm Coffee & The Trail Down
The weather was quite rough when we first arrived at the trailhead.
As we began walking through the quiet farming hamlets, we came across unmanned, self-service stalls (無人販売所) where locals set out fresh fruits, vegetables, hand-carved wood crafts, and handmade ceramics. I couldn't resist buying a beautiful ceramic sake bottle and matching cup set to bring home—a tangible piece of the Kumano countryside.
After our shopping detour, we stopped to grab a nice warm coffee to fuel up and take off the chill before diving deeper onto the forest path.
This stretch is widely considered the most picturesque section of the Nakahechi route. The trail gently winds downhill through tranquil cedar groves, small village gardens, and open tea fields. Walking down from Hosshinmon-oji and through the Forest of Rebirth with our guide's words in mind made every step feel remarkably light and grounded. Clocking in 15.13 km in 3:45:59, we successfully brought our trail walking to an end.
Oyunohara & Kumano Beef Lunch
Before making our final ascent up to the grand shrine, we explored the surrounding historical sites in the valley:
Oyunohara (大齋原): We walked out to the original riverbank site where Kumano Hongu Taisha stood for centuries before being damaged by a major flood in 1889. Standing beneath the world's largest Torii gate (towering at over 33 meters) surrounded by open fields was deeply serene.
Kumano Beef Lunch: Next, we refueled with a fantastic lunch featuring local Kumano Beef (熊野牛)—tender, flavorful, and the ultimate reward after days of trail meals.
World Heritage Center Registration: Right across the way at the Wakayama World Heritage Center, two ladies in our group who had previously completed Spain's Camino de Santiago registered their credentials and had their official photos taken for the World Heritage database.
The Climax: Kumano Hongu Taisha & The Sacred Drum Ceremony
For the grand finale of our entire pilgrimage, we stepped onto the grounds of Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社), officially completing our visits to all Kumano Three Grand Shrines (熊野三山)! As the spiritual heart of Kumano, Hongu Taisha carries a deeply serene and timeless energy.
We gathered in the inner shrine grounds for the final Dual Pilgrim completion ritual. Watching the ladies strike the massive, deep-sounding Taiko drum to officially announce their pilgrimage completion to the gods was deeply moving. The reverberation of that drum echoing across the ancient wooden shrine structures felt like the ultimate punctuation mark on our journey.
It totally sparked something in me—now I’m even more determined to hike the Camino de Santiago in Spain soon, then return to Kumano down the road to strike that drum myself!
We returned to our hotel at Kawayu Onsen for one final evening of soaking in the river baths and enjoying a hearty buffet dinner.
