#Eda85DaysInJapan | Chapter 2 (Part 3)
๐๏ธ 29 April 2026
๐ Route: Koguchi โ Kogumotori-goe โ Hyakukengura โ Ukegawa โ Kawayu Onsen
Early Bus to Koguchi & A Shift in Pace from Ogumotori-goe
Our morning started early around 6:30 AM as we hopped on a local public bus heading back to Koguchi to begin Kogumotori-goe (ๅฐ้ฒๅ่ถ).
Compared to the physical intensity and steep climbs of Ogumotori-goe (ๅคง้ฒๅ่ถ) two days priorโwhere we battled heavy rain and slick stone stepsโKogumotori-goe felt much more manageable and forgiving.
We also met quite a few hikers from different countries along this stretch, making it noticeably more lively and crowded. The steady, gentle gradients allowed everyone to settle into a comfortable rhythm and really take in the forest surroundings without gasping for air!
The Panoramic View at Hyakukengura
About halfway through, we reached Hyakukengura (็พ้ๅ)โwidely regarded as one of the finest viewpoints along the Nakahechi route.
The forest opens up to an expansive, panoramic view overlooking the endless ridges of the Kumano mountain range. Standing at the lookout with the mountain wind blowing through, it was the perfect spot to pause and appreciate the scenery before descending.
Soaking in the River Onsen & Feasting at Kawayu
After completing the 13 km walk to Ukegawa bus stop in 3:56:43, we transferred to Kawayu Onsen (ๅทๆนฏๆบซๆณ) for the night.
Our onsen hotel was real good, and the highlight was definitely the river bath itself. At Kawayu, hot thermal water naturally bubbles up right through the riverbed rocks. Sitting in the warm river water with the cool open air around us was such a joy and the ultimate reward for our legs after hours of hiking.
To round off the night, we indulged in a fantastic buffet dinner at the hotel with plenty of local sake pouring. After pushing our bodies on mountain trails, eating well, drinking sake, and relaxing by the river was pure bliss!
