#Eda85DaysInJapan | Chapter 2 (Part 2)
ποΈ Date: 28 April 2026
π Route: Kumano River Boat β Kumano Hayatama Taisha β Kamikura Shrine β Kumano Asuka-jinja Shrine
Cruising the World's Only Water Pilgrimage
Day 3 was a complete shift in pace after the physical test of Ogumotori-goe the day before.
We started the morning by boarding a traditional wooden boat to float down the Kumano Riverβthe only river route in the world designated as a UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage path. Floating down the quiet water felt incredibly serene. Our guide was a local elderly resident who explained the traditional river rituals and shared local history as we drifted along.
They told us about the destructive September 2011 typhoon, when floodwaters surged up to 8 meters high, wiping out large parts of the surrounding riverbank communities. Looking at how calm and clear the water was during our trip, it was hard to imagine the sheer power of that flood, but it gave us a real appreciation for the resilience of the locals.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha & The 538 Steps of Kamikura
After landing, we walked over to Kumano Hayatama Taisha (ηιιη倧瀾), marking the second of the Kumano Grand Shrines on our itinerary.
From there, we made our way to Kamikura Shrine (η₯εη₯η€Ύ). The approach here is famous for a reason: 538 rough, ancient stone steps carved right into the mountainside with no handrails whatsoever. You really have to watch where you put your feet.
At the summit sits Gotobiki-iwa (η΄εΌε²©), a gigantic sacred boulder perched on the edge of the cliff overlooking the entire city of Shingu and the Pacific Ocean. In local Kumano belief, this rock is revered as the natural spot where the Kumano deities originally descended to Earth. Our guide took us to the specific spot along the rock known as the secret energy point, and we managed to touch the sacred stone to soak in the energy.
Our guide also explained the shrineβs famous festival, Oto Matsuri (γγ¨γγΎγ€γ). Every year on February 6th, about 2,000 men dressed in white wrap ropes around their waists, light massive wooden torches, and run full-speed down those 538 uneven stone steps in the dark. From below, it looks like a rushing "river of fire" or a dragon descending the mountain. Having just climbed those steps in broad daylight with proper hiking boots, thinking about running down them with burning torches left all of us thoroughly impressed by their grit.
Ancient Origins & A Familiar Face in the Clouds
We wrapped up the day at Kumano Asuka-jinja Shrine (ηιιΏι θ³η₯η€Ύ), considered by many to be the oldest shrine site in the entire Kumano region.
Interestingly, thereβs a small shrine on the grounds dedicated to Jofuku οΌTsui Fok!) β the guy sent by Emperor Qin Shi Huang of China to search for the elixir of immortality. According to local lore, instead of returning empty-handed, he settled down right here in Shingu, bringing farming and medicine skills to the local people.
To top off a special day, I looked up at the sky and saw Tony right there with us, camouflaged up in the clouds. βοΈπ
