#Eda85daysinJapan | Chapter 4 (Hokuriku) | Kanazawa – Gyokuryu-ji & Daijo-ji

🗓️ 16 May – 13 June 2026
📍 Gyokuryu-ji & Daijo-ji

Two Soto Zen temples I visited in Kanazawa — and they couldn’t have been more different.

Gyokuryu-ji is in the Teramachi temple district. It’s a Soto Zen temple that used to be the family temple of the Maeda Nagatane family, one of the Kaga Eight Houses. It was founded back in 1514 in Owari and later moved a few times before settling in Kanazawa. The grounds are simple and peaceful, and there’s a very old cherry tree that’s now a protected tree of the city.

I first saw online that there’s a nursery right next to it, and that’s exactly what made me want to go. At the entrance you’re welcomed by a Gundam, and once you step inside there are cartoon characters everywhere — Anpanman, Mickey and Minnie, Godzilla… the whole place feels like a mix of temple and playground. When I arrived it was recess time and the kids were out playing. I got a friendly nod from one of the teachers and walked in. The Japanese kids were so surprised to see me and kept coming over to chat. One of them even asked what I was doing there (I only understood after pulling out Google Translate). It was such a fun and unexpected little moment.

Daijo-ji is further out in the hills south of the city. It’s a historically important Soto Zen temple. Founded in the late 13th century by Tettsu Gikai (the third abbot of Eiheiji), with Keizan Jokin as the second abbot who later founded Sojiji. The temple moved to its current spot in 1697. The layout still follows the traditional monastic style, and the Buddha Hall is a National Important Cultural Property.

I wasn’t planning to go there at first. I just wanted to climb up to the nearby hill/park for a higher view of Kanazawa, and I stumbled upon the temple along the way. It was completely quiet — no one else around. With the sun shining and that calm atmosphere, it really gave me a sense of respect and peace. I wandered around on my own and found large adjoining rooms in a residential wing where the monks pass through all the time. I also found out they offer meditation classes. Just before leaving I met a lady who was tidying up. I bowed and said thank you. I really appreciate all the work people put in to keep these historical places alive.

One temple full of kids and cartoon characters, the other quiet and still under the sun. Both Soto Zen, but such different worlds.